Washington, D.C. is the home to ambitious politicos, world class museums, and since 1995 La Barra Brava (“the brave fans”), the independent fan club of Major League Soccer team, D.C. United.
The word ‘fan’ derives from ‘fanatic’ and La Barra Brava are true to the original meaning of the world. The self-styled ‘12th man’ claim on their website to be, “Molded in the tradition of the Barras of Argentina, Chile, Bolivia, Peru [and incorporating] chants, songs, drums, banners, streamers, jumping and plenty of cerveza.” Yes, unlike the sanitised experience at most Premier League grounds, La Barra Brava’s fans spend the whole game on their feet and are allowed to drink beer within clear view of the pitch.
The atmosphere for Saturday night’s top of the table clash against Toronto FC was electric. In front of a far from capacity crowd of 15,652 at RFK Memorial Stadium, La Barra Brava generated more noise than at all but a handful of British games. Waving flags and banging drums throughout, the supporters chanted favourite songs such as “Vamos United,” “United, mi gran amigo,” and the fruitier (and certainly more British), “shit on the bastards below.”
Although families are encouraged to sit on the other side of the stadium, supporters of all ages and backgrounds are drawn to the action. Numerous children sporting La Barra Brava paraphernalia stomped and chanted alongside the most fervent twenty-somethings. With all the exuberance and colour it’s little wonder that Sections 135 to 138 are home to all comers.
“I was very surprised by the Barra Brava insanity at my first United game,” says Payson Schwin, 29, who has been attending games for three years, “It took a few games before we went down to stand in their section but once we did I was hooked because the chanting was so cool and so different from anything I’d ever experienced in the States.”
The laissez faire attitude shown by the police is at odds with the litigious American culture and something of an oddity given that the behaviour of some fans – smoking, lighting flares, and throwing beer around – is clearly in contravention of stadium rules. “It is generally very happy, boisterous, and diverse,” explains Max Bergmann, 28, “They have a very good relationship with the management and in return the management works with them to ensure that they are permitted to create that atmosphere.” Violence is uncommon: “it’s too new to be that passionate about,” says Bergmann.
The action matched the prevailing mood with plenty of flair and little caution. Both sides showed defensive failings and were guilty of throwing away the lead. It all ended 3-3 with a last minute penalty slotted home by popular Bolivian, Jaime Moreno. At the final whistle, Moreno proved his worth as an honorary member of La Barra Brava. Instead of turning on his heels and heading for the dressing room, he walked over to the side of the pitch to chat to the fans and one couple in particular who had got engaged at half-time.
While DC, the city, settles down to the business-as-usual politics of Obama’s presidency, any adrenaline junkies feeling bored after the election need look no further than DC United and its thriving subculture.